And instead of using the hardware that came with the hinges, I have created using used 3″ screws.While transforming a shed with insulation takes a bit of work, most DIYers can learn how to insulate a shed and complete the project in less than a weekend. Make sure that the bolt on the hinge is in line with the reveal, so that the doors don’t bind. However, I did manage to move them into place and work them into the door jam. I played with the placement a little bit, trying to make sure the reveal was roughly a 1/4″ all the way around. Once you work the doors into place, then you can grab the door hardware and attach the doors. Installing the Shed Double Doors:īefore you move your doors into place, grab a 1/4″ piece of scrap and set it on the floor of the door opening, to set the doors onto. Now the pattern for the trim is a personal preference so just go with whatever look you prefer. Then I came through with some 1″ X 4″s as the trim pieces. However, adding insulation to these doors would probably be a great idea if you are trying to reduce noise. Note: I actually meant to add insulation but I just got carried away building and building and building, that I completely forgot. Whenever I saw that they were going to line up good, I went through with some screws and attached them to the front of the 2″ X 4″s. Note: I cut the skins of these where one has an overhanging and the other is off-set. I did this so that whenever the doors are shut, it’s just a little more weather tight. Then I used my circular saw once again to cut down a sheet of T1-11 siding to create the front skin of the door. I took my last row of shingles, cutting off 2″ off the back so that whenever I set them into place they were now properly in line. Once you get to the very back where the shingles will be overlapping more than they should, I took a measurement from the very back wall, down to the previous row’s slit and cut off that amount from the last row of shingles, so in my case, it was 2″. However, for that to be accurate, you have to make sure that you are attaching your roofing paper square.Īgain, go through and just continue attaching it with four nails per set, alternating each row with a full set of shingles, then a set cutting 6″ off, then a full set of shingles, then cutting 6 ” off….etc. Or, the way that I did it, the roofing paper comes with pre-made lines on it and I used those to make sure that my lines were straight. You can do this by making marks on both sides of your roof and using a chalk line to make a straight line, or you can do it by eye. You need to be making sure that as you are laying each row down, you are keeping them in line. So don’t throw away your scraps until the very end.Ī few things to note. Also it just worked out that the 6″ that I cut off in the beginning, fit perfectly on the end, to make a complete row. When you are lining these up, you need to be placing the bottom of the shingles right on top of the previous row’s shingles slit. Then line it up with the first row of shingles. To do this, flip the shingle strip over and cut off 6″ using a box blade. This is so water won’t get underneath the shingles. Before you start on the second row you need to cut off 6″ so that the shingles will be staggered and not completely in line with one another. Note: Do your best to get this first row straight so that it will make lining up the rest of the rows easier. You need to be placing the nails right above the shingle slit and right below the tar strip. Make sure that this has an overhang of 3/8″ and tack it down using 4 nails per strip. For the little bit of room that is left over, you can use a whole starter strip or you can cut it down to size, but make sure it still has an overhang of 3/8″ off the side of the roof as well as the front.Now you can start attaching the actual shingles. Once you have the starter strip in place, then use four nails, right below the tar strip to attach it to the roof. After the first starter strip is in place, grab the next starter strip that is a full length, butt it up to the end and repeat the process. Now, I made my starter strips flush with my drip edges however, they actually need to be overhanging by 3/8″. I lined it up with my edges then nailed it down. Also, I took one of them and cut off 6″ so that it will be staggered from the first row of shingles.I took the one that I cut 6″ off and used that as my very first starter strip. I did this three times to create all of my starter strips. To make them, I used a box blade to cut along the tar strip and remove the three shingles. These are the strips that are going to be laid down, underneath the first row of shingles. The first thing I did was start off by making my starter strips. It took me one bundle of shingles to do my entire roof.
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